The Beginning of the Journey
A few summers ago, I returned to Pragueโthis time with my family. I had first visited ten years earlier with my husband, and ever since, I had dreamed of coming back. From Berlin, itโs just a four-hour train ride, a reminder of how wonderfully connected life in Europe can be.
Our first steps led us to the Charles Bridge, Pragueโs timeless landmark. Built in 1357 by order of Emperor Charles IV, it once formed part of the โRoyal Routeโ for coronation processions. Today, its rows of Baroque statues create the feeling of an open-air gallery. By day, it hums with artists, vendors, and visitors. But in the early morning, the bridge is hushed and still, the cool air carrying the reflections of Prague Castle in the river belowโa magical start to the journey.
The Charm of the Old Town
The Old Town Square is the very heart of the city. At the strike of every hour, crowds gather before the Astronomical Clock as the Twelve Apostles parade past tiny windows and a skeleton rings its bell. Crafted in the early 15th century, the clock not only tells the time but also charts the sun, the moon, and the zodiac. To see it ticking precisely after more than 600 years is to marvel at the genius of medieval craftsmanship.
From the tower above the square, we looked down on a sea of red rooftops and winding cobblestone lanesโa picture-perfect Prague view. By night, the square shimmered under golden lights, transformed into something almost dreamlike. Sitting at a restaurant right in front of the clock, sipping a cold beer as the figures spun into motion, was one of those small, perfect moments Iโll never forget.
This is also where Franz Kafka was born and raised. The labyrinthine streets and heavy stone buildings seem to echo the unease and absurdity of his stories. During his lifetime, Kafka worked as a civil servant and was not widely recognized as a writer. At the Kafka Museum, I caught a glimpse of that double lifeโordinary routines on one side, a haunting inner world on the other. After visiting, I found myself drawn back to his booksโThe Metamorphosis, The Castle, The Trialโas if to carry the mood of Prague home through his words.
Prague Castle and Art
Prague Castle, one of the largest castle complexes in the world, still radiates the authority it once held as the seat of the Holy Roman Empire. In the 14th century, Charles IV made it the heart of his realm and began the monumental construction of St. Vitus Cathedral. Later, under Habsburg rule, it took on echoes of Viennaโs grandeurโsomething I could feel the moment I stepped inside.
In art, Alfons Mucha left the strongest impression. While his Art Nouveau posters enchanted Paris at the end of the 19th century, his later monumental works carried the spirit of his homeland. At the exhibition, the elegance of his lines and colors was matched by a passion for his country that gave the art an even deeper resonance.
And then, on a narrow street, I stumbled upon Man Hanging Outโa sculpture of Sigmund Freud dangling by one hand. At first glance, I thought it was a real person! This witty, provocative work by Czech artist David ฤernรฝ felt worlds apart from the solemn castles and cathedrals, yet it, too, is part of Pragueโs charm: a city where history and humor live side by side.
Prague and the Movies
Pragueโs beauty hasnโt gone unnoticed by filmmakers. With its remarkably preserved medieval setting, the city has starred in countless productions. Amadeus brought its palaces and theaters to the screen, echoing the real history of 1787, when Mozart himself conducted the premiere of Don Giovanni at the Estates Theatre.
And then thereโs Hollywoodโs Mission: Impossible, with Tom Cruise dashing through Pragueโs Old Town in thrilling chase scenes. My husband, a fan, made sure we stopped at those spotsโcamera in hand, of course.
Culinary Memories of Prague
We didnโt set out to try Pragueโs traditional specialties, but the meals we enjoyed left lasting impressions. By the Charles Bridge, along the Vltava River, we returned to a restaurant my husband and I had visited a decade earlier.
Back then, a cheese risotto had left such an impression that I couldnโt wait to try it again. Though it was no longer on the menu, a mushroom risotto had taken its place. Rich, buttery, and fragrant, it quickly became the centerpiece of our lunch and a new family favorite.๐
The appetizer that preceded it was equally delightfulโsalmon tartare brightened with colorful sauces and herbs, a dish as refreshing as it was beautiful.๐ฉท
Another evening took us to a cozy little restaurant where I enjoyed schnitzelโcrispy on the outside, tender insideโserved with tangy potato salad. And, naturally, it was paired with Pragueโs famous beer. The Czech Republic is the birthplace of Pilsner, and beer here is part of daily life. A glass enjoyed mid-sightseeing was refreshing, but with dinner it revealed a depth and balance that made me appreciate it all the more.
And then there was Trdelnรญk. Dough spiraled around a rod, roasted over open fire, and dusted with sugar and cinnamonโit was once a simple, rustic treat. Ten years ago, I loved its warmth and crunch. Now, the trend is to fill it with cream or ice cream, a colorful twist for tourists. I couldnโt find the traditional style this time, but an old photo brought it all back: the smell, the taste, the charm of that first bite.
In Closing
Prague gave me days woven with history, art, film, and foodโa city where every corner seemed to tell a story. Looking back at my photos, I can almost feel the air again, hear the echoes of the squares, and taste the dishes we shared.๐
๐ That mushroom risotto even inspired me to create my own recipe.๐ If youโd like to try it at home, youโll find it here: Chanterelle Mushroom Risotto (Risotto ai Finferli) โ The Ultimate Fall Dish
